1. Brussels: Brussels was great. I arrived Thursday evening to be greeted by Elena from New York, who occupied the bunk below me. We quickly agreed to get up and explore together the next day. Brussels is not a beautiful city. In fact, it’s not even pretty, or stylish. However, what it lacks in looks, it seems to make up for in character. For example, the city has a considerable flea market that runs from 4:30 am every day of the week! Elena and I visited at about 10:00, and after a perusal through the heaps of clothing, accessories, shoes, furnishings, and the rest of anything you can imagine, we stopped for breakfast. Only the server informed us that there was no food available until 11:30, “just coffee or beer.” Sure enough, there was a couple at another table, toddler in tow, drinking either pints of beer or apple juice. All street signs are in Flemish and in French. It was not uncommon to find a modern building in stark contrast to an old, neighbouring building – in one case, office buildings designed with metal steeples meant to imitate the gothic Cathedral next door. The city hall is absolutely stunning, whereas the European Parliament building is an awfully anticlimactic, and one of the best panoramic views is available for free atop a parking garage. Mannekin Pis is a particularly famous statue that has become somewhat of a symbol of Brussels. He is a naked, peeing boy. However, I preferred Mannekin’s lesser known sister Jeanneke Pis – equally naked and yes, squatting down to pee. It was certainly an interesting city to wander about.
Trying a delightful Macaron from Pierre Marcolini
Mannekin Pis
City Hall
Elena and I with our waffles and fresh mint tea.
Jeanneke Pis
Cathedral with imitation office buildings.
2. Antwerp: Antwerp is somewhat prettier than Brussels, and far more stylish due to its school of fashion. I drank coffee and read my book. I drank red wine in a café with free Sunday afternoon jazz. I visited the lovely Fashion Museum, and walked by the less lovely red light district. I paid visits to the Cathedral of Our Lady and the very excellent exhibits at the Royal Museum of Fine Arts. I also enjoyed discovering the Orthodox Jewish population in my hostel’s neighbourhood. It’s tough not to smile at a bearded man riding his bicycle, wearing a black trench coat and top hat.
3. Bruges: I’m not sure Colin Farrell knew what he was saying when he suggested hell might be spending the rest of eternity In Bruges. Personally, I thought Bruges was quite wonderful. I stayed at an excellent hostel (Snuffel) and met numerous people – Swedes, Kiwis, Germans, Aussies, Canadians and an American – whose company I enjoyed. However, besides the company, Bruges is a really lovely, little place. Cobblestones and canals continue to charm me, and the view from the famous Belfry was certainly worth the climb on the sunny day I had. Equally as charming were the elderly ladies I visited at the Jerusalem Church to see a demonstration of lace making. I had never considered how lace was made, but it is truly an art. I was especially delighted to witness the 80-something year old luminary of the group with fingers so dextrous, I might have thought she was a video in fast forward if I hadn’t been looking on as she worked. Significantly less charming was the volume of smoke that accumulated in the crowded bars. I had thought smoking was banned in Belgium, but apparently the looseness and fine print of the ban goes along with Belgium’s quirks.
The Belfry
View from the Belfry.
4. Ghent: My good friend Dirk and 4 of his buddies made their way to Ghent to spend a night out showing me the town. To be honest, the night is a bit of a blur of Belgian beers, bar-hopping (must have been at least ten), and the odd mojito, but a fun night it was. The birds were singing by the time we rolled back into our bed and breakfast. My only regret is that there was not time enough to thoroughly enjoy both the night out and the appealing comforts of the bed portion of bed & breakfast. However, I can’t do it all. At least the breakfast was delicious – as were the private bathrooms. I wish I could say I was lively enough to explore the next day, but past seeing a very interesting art exhibit on Body Image at the Guislain Museum, I mostly enjoyed the fact that my hostel was in fact, a houseboat run by eco-friendly hippies.
Ghent
If you’ve noticed that I’ve left out the culinary delights of Belgium, it was only due to the fact that I enjoyed the chocolates, waffles, French fries and beers throughout Belgium rather than in one specific place. The chocolate actually made me feel somewhat delirious with pleasure. The waffles were just as exciting (yes, exciting). The French fries were made special mostly by the Belgian special sauce, which is a sort of beer and meat sauce not unlike gravy. The good variety of beers I tried were all very pleasing, though as my Grampa pointed out, not alongside the chocolates or the waffles.
I hadn’t had any special expectations for Belgium, but whatever they might have been, I feel the country far exceeded them. I had a grand time in Belgium, and would highly recommend visiting.
I’m now in Paris! I arrived early this morning by train from Ghent to a day I am told was “the most beautiful day in three months”. And while I can’t say for the last three months, it certainly was a beautiful day.
Sending love from France!
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