Since my last post, I spent eleven nights in Ireland (Northern Ireland included), and eight in Scotland. I was completely charmed by Ireland, and just as pleased with my visit to Scotland.
I started out in Dublin with my lovely friend Bernadette and Scottish friend Maddy, who had made the trip to join us. Our first adventure was to head to the prehistoric monument of the Newgrange passage tomb. It was built in 3000 B.C. I found it astounding. Afterall, it’s a giant, watertight tomb set on a hill, constructed out of slabs of slate, with a passageway to the centre that is lit up only during the winter solstice sunrise – and it’s 5000 years old. Perhaps this is especially astounding to someone whose country is a mere 143 years old, but there was something pretty special about standing in a structure that old. I also experienced a “typical Irish picnic” sitting in the car eating homemade sandwiches and hiding from the rain. We also visited the dank and depressing old Kilmainham Gaol (which is apparently pronounced “jail” – silly Irish), visited Dun Lauoghaire, walked along the River Liffey, and enjoyed lazy mornings the likes of our lazy mornings in New Zealand.
Mads and I at Newgrange.
The River Liffey in Dulin
Kilmainham Gaol
Then the day after Maddy left, Ber and I took off to Northern Ireland. Our first stop was Belfast, where we stayed in a great hostel run by a nutty South African man. Our first day, we visited the Peace Line. The Peace Lines are actually walls that run in sections between various Catholic and Protestant neighbourhoods in order to minimize violence. The section that we visited separates the Catholic neighbourhood of Falls and the Protestant neighbourhood of Shankill. It was made of concrete, then corrugated iron, and then chainlink. And it probably stood about 6 metres tall. However, the entire length we walked was covered in graffiti, and upon closer inspection, personal tags from around the world. It was a very moving experience to see the vast number handwritten wishes for hope, love and peace. We spent a long time at that wall and could not find one negative message. Though interestingly, there was no message that dated earlier than May 2010. Apparently the tagging is routinely painted over. Then to end the day on a lighter note (though only metaphorically), we ate beef and Guinness pie for dinner.
The Peace Line
Massive meat pie.
The next days were spent:
a) Visiting the amazing Giants’s Causeway: massive interlocking basalt columns on the Northeast coast.
"The Organ"
b) Dancing to traditional Irish music in the lively pub Fibber Maggees.
c) Driving through County Fermanagh so that I could check out where my Grandmother’s (Dad’s side) family came from. The large Lake Erne lies in County Fermanagh. In fact, Fermanagh is referred to as Ireland’s lake district. Perhaps that’s how my ancestors ended up in Manitoba.
d) Staying in Donegal Town in another sweet hostel with another nutty hostel owner.
e) Visiting the truly awesome Slieve League Cliffs on the West Coast. We visited on a beautiful, sunny day, and the cliffs were a thrilling sight. We were careful to avoid the edges so as not to be blown off by the extreme winds. And as a special treat, after a brief rain shower passed over us, we were treated to a rainbow in the cove. It wasn’t the brightest rainbow I’ve ever seen, but I could very nearly see a full circle, and the backdrop was unbeatable. It was certainly a site I will never forget. (Unfortunately, since the rainbow dipped into the Atlantic, the pot of gold was unattainable)
Crouching at the edge.
Ber had some work to do when we arrived back in Dublin, so if anyone was worried that I left Dublin without partying, fear not! I spent a night in a hostel in the city and enjoyed a proper night out. I even drank a Guinness.
Next I was off to Edinburgh to stay with Maddy. I thoroughly enjoyed Edinburgh. The population is half a million, so in relation to many other European cities, I felt much more at home. And also, it’s an extremely pretty city. The volcanic remains of Arthur’s Seat sit at the Southern edge of the city, the estuary from the North Sea is to the North, and Edinburgh Castle is visible from almost anywhere. Of course, I couldn’t help but be charmed by the buskers playing the bagpipes, the patrons in the pubs wearing kilts, the writing on the road that cleverly advised “Look Both Ways”, or the odd “aye” I received as an affirmative response. A great city, in my opinion. One in which I only wish I’d had more time to spend.
Edinburgh Castle
Arthur's Seat
View atop Arthur's Seat
After a few days in Edinburgh, I caught the bus north to Aviemore in the highlands to visit Rachael – the third of my close girlfriends from my New Zealand adventures. Aviemore was a good-looking and peaceful town, and it was grand to finally meet Rachael’s beau Phil. As an added bonus, I got to spend plenty of time with their 4-month old Border Terrier pup Spud. We visited Loch Ness and Castle Urquhart, we drank too much, we visited the Wildlife Park to see the “fierce and elusive” Scottish Wildcat (which looks strikingly like a large housecat), we caught up, we walked Spud, and we partook in the local trivia night. It was another fantastic visit.
Loch Ness
Spud!
I have loved and still love my travels in Europe, but it was lovely to spend some more time (in addition to the beach house and Grimstad over the holidays) away from big cities and enjoying the natural beauty in Ireland and Scotland. And now I am in Belgium, already loving it. But of course, that is an entry for another day – this one is already plenty long!
Sending love from Belgium.
