Gaelic Adventures

Since my last post, I spent eleven nights in Ireland (Northern Ireland included), and eight in Scotland. I was completely charmed by Ireland, and just as pleased with my visit to Scotland.

I started out in Dublin with my lovely friend Bernadette and Scottish friend Maddy, who had made the trip to join us. Our first adventure was to head to the prehistoric monument of the Newgrange passage tomb. It was built in 3000 B.C. I found it astounding. Afterall, it’s a giant, watertight tomb set on a hill, constructed out of slabs of slate, with a passageway to the centre that is lit up only during the winter solstice sunrise – and it’s 5000 years old. Perhaps this is especially astounding to someone whose country is a mere 143 years old, but there was something pretty special about standing in a structure that old. I also experienced a “typical Irish picnic” sitting in the car eating homemade sandwiches and hiding from the rain. We also visited the dank and depressing old Kilmainham Gaol (which is apparently pronounced “jail” – silly Irish), visited Dun Lauoghaire, walked along the River Liffey, and enjoyed lazy mornings the likes of our lazy mornings in New Zealand.

Mads and I at Newgrange.

The River Liffey in Dulin

Kilmainham Gaol

Then the day after Maddy left, Ber and I took off to Northern Ireland. Our first stop was Belfast, where we stayed in a great hostel run by a nutty South African man. Our first day, we visited the Peace Line. The Peace Lines are actually walls that run in sections between various Catholic and Protestant neighbourhoods in order to minimize violence. The section that we visited separates the Catholic neighbourhood of Falls and the Protestant neighbourhood of Shankill. It was made of concrete, then corrugated iron, and then chainlink. And it probably stood about 6 metres tall. However, the entire length we walked was covered in graffiti, and upon closer inspection, personal tags from around the world. It was a very moving experience to see the vast number handwritten wishes for hope, love and peace. We spent a long time at that wall and could not find one negative message. Though interestingly, there was no message that dated earlier than May 2010. Apparently the tagging is routinely painted over. Then to end the day on a lighter note (though only metaphorically), we ate beef and Guinness pie for dinner.

The Peace Line

Massive meat pie.

The next days were spent:

a)   Visiting the amazing Giants’s Causeway: massive interlocking basalt columns on the Northeast coast.

"The Organ"

b)   Dancing to traditional Irish music in the lively pub Fibber Maggees.

c)    Driving through County Fermanagh so that I could check out where my Grandmother’s (Dad’s side) family came from. The large Lake Erne lies in County Fermanagh. In fact, Fermanagh is referred to as Ireland’s lake district. Perhaps that’s how my ancestors ended up in Manitoba.

d)   Staying in Donegal Town in another sweet hostel with another nutty hostel owner.

e)   Visiting the truly awesome Slieve League Cliffs on the West Coast. We visited on a beautiful, sunny day, and the cliffs were a thrilling sight. We were careful to avoid the edges so as not to be blown off by the extreme winds. And as a special treat, after a brief rain shower passed over us, we were treated to a rainbow in the cove. It wasn’t the brightest rainbow I’ve ever seen, but I could very nearly see a full circle, and the backdrop was unbeatable. It was certainly a site I will never forget. (Unfortunately, since the rainbow dipped into the Atlantic, the pot of gold was unattainable)

Crouching at the edge.

Ber had some work to do when we arrived back in Dublin, so if anyone was worried that I left Dublin without partying, fear not! I spent a night in a hostel in the city and enjoyed a proper night out. I even drank a Guinness.

Next I was off to Edinburgh to stay with Maddy. I thoroughly enjoyed Edinburgh. The population is half a million, so in relation to many other European cities, I felt much more at home. And also, it’s an extremely pretty city. The volcanic remains of Arthur’s Seat sit at the Southern edge of the city, the estuary from the North Sea is to the North, and Edinburgh Castle is visible from almost anywhere. Of course, I couldn’t help but be charmed by the buskers playing the bagpipes, the patrons in the pubs wearing kilts, the writing on the road that cleverly advised “Look Both Ways”, or the odd “aye” I received as an affirmative response. A great city, in my opinion. One in which I only wish I’d had more time to spend.

Edinburgh Castle

Arthur's Seat

View atop Arthur's Seat

After a few days in Edinburgh, I caught the bus north to Aviemore in the highlands to visit Rachael – the third of my close girlfriends from my New Zealand adventures. Aviemore was a good-looking and peaceful town, and it was grand to finally meet Rachael’s beau Phil. As an added bonus, I got to spend plenty of time with their 4-month old Border Terrier pup Spud. We visited Loch Ness and Castle Urquhart, we drank too much, we visited the Wildlife Park to see the “fierce and elusive” Scottish Wildcat (which looks strikingly like a large housecat), we caught up, we walked Spud, and we partook in the local trivia night. It was another fantastic visit.

Loch Ness 

Spud!

I have loved and still love my travels in Europe, but it was lovely to spend some more time (in addition to the beach house and Grimstad over the holidays) away from big cities and enjoying the natural beauty in Ireland and Scotland. And now I am in Belgium, already loving it. But of course, that is an entry for another day – this one is already plenty long!

Sending love from Belgium.

Oh, and for anyone who may be looking forward to my return to Winnipeg – less than two months to go now (I'll be home on March 24th)!

And the World Spins Madly On

When I decided to travel Europe through the autumn and winter, some people asked why. Aside from the cheaper flights, the milder-than-Winnipeg temperatures, and the lesser volume of tourists, all those who wondered should visit Norway under snow. I am certain that Norway is beautiful in the summer as well, but I loved visiting in the winter. However, I must admit that I have possibly never been more cold than I was in Grimstad at -8 degrees. The humid cold next to the Ocean was different than the dry Winnipeg cold I’m used to, but nothing a borrowed set of wool thermals couldn’t fix.

“Ida from Norway” was one of the first friends I made when I moved to Melbourne last year, and it was truly a pleasure visiting her at home. I spent eight days in Grimstad and five days in Oslo – ten catching up and playing with Ida. We spent a lot of time talking, playing with Tinka, eating chocolates, visiting nearby cities Arendal and Kristiansand, and enjoying traditional Norwegian meals (salted lamb, boiled potatoes, turnip), courtesy of her parents. 

Going for a walk with Tinka!

Arendal

Another walk with Tinka in Grimstad

A few special activities are worth a more elaborate mention:

1.  We went cross-country skiing! Now, I’ve been cross-country skiing in Manitoba – we used to ski during winter vacation fairly often. However, I quickly learned that cross-country skiing in Manitoba and cross-country skiing in Norway are very different activities. The Manitoban version makes the Norwegian version look like downhill skiing, which made this quite an ‘exciting’ activity for me, and quite an amusing one for Ida. As it turned out, I did quite well on the downhills, even if I screamed out from time to time. The unfortunate part was having to climb the steep side of those hills, but at least we burned off a few of those holiday food calories. (Unfortunately for you, no photos were taken)


 2.  We went skating! I was thrilled to see the expansive outdoor ice-surface in Arendal, though the thrill was somewhat short lived when my skates turned out to be slightly more temperamental than I’m used to. We still had a great time, and the setting was beautiful, but it was more of a “here for a good time, not a long time” situation.

3.  We partied on New Year’s Eve! We cooked and ate at home along with Ida’s friend Christine. Several “adult beverages” (as my cousin Aynsley calls them) were also enjoyed. Then shortly after 11:30, we donned our “National Suits of Froland” and headed for the party. We didn’t make it to the party on time, but we had a great view of all the fireworks, which are set off independently. As we stood in the street, fireworks exploded from about six different directions. It was very loud, very colourful, and most enjoyable. Shortly thereafter, we headed to the party and danced the night away with a few more adult beverages in hand. It was a great night.

On our way to the party.

4. We headed to Oslo together for a couple of days, checking out Holmenkollen ski jump, the Edvard Munch museum, Vigeland Park with all Vigeland’s statues of naked people of all ages, Akershuus Fortress, and enjoying coffee and cakes in the city.

Vigeland Park

Vigeland's famously angry baby, and Laurie and David's somewhat-less-famous, previously angry baby.

After Ida went home, I was left with some very strange hostel mates, so I did my best to keep myself properly occupied over my last few days in Norway. I visited the striking Opera House, where you can climb up to the roof and enjoy the view of Oslofjord. I enjoyed the National Gallery and all Norway’s artists had to offer. I drank coffee, read my book, and people-watched at cafes. I wandered Oslo’s main street Karl Johans Gate, exercising my self-restraint trying not to shop. I visited the brilliant Nobel Peace Centre to learn more about 2010 laureate Liu Xiaobo as well all the other laureates. And I ensured myself plenty of time to catch my flight to Dublin.

Den Norske Opera

Oslofjord

(S)LAUGHTER - The Nobel Peace Centre

Which leaves me in Dublin currently. I’m staying with my friend Bernadette, whom I met in New Zealand. Our Scottish friend Maddy has come over for a visit as well (though I’ll be visiting Scotland next, she’s on holidays now!), and we’ve been having a great time. But once again, that is another blog. So cheers for now!

Sending love from Ireland!

ps - For you, Ida: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKSxlJPmz40 

'Twas the night BEFORE Christmas

My second visit to Copenhagen was much more relaxed than the first, which was just as I intended. It was Christmas, afterall. A lot more time was spent indoors, catching up, drinking coffee and/or tea, and watching movies. There was actually a leaky kitchen sink issue my first evening back, which resulted in the water to the kitchen being cut off for the duration of my visit (doing a week’s worth of dishes in a small bathroom with one washing, two drying and one “running” was definitely a unique experience). So we ate more take-out (pizza!), but still plenty of spinach salad. We did manage to make Danish candy, which is quite an art. A very delicious, and rewarding art, though one that will make you feel a bit ill when you eat too much marzipan and nougat.

The finished Danish candy.

The bathroom dishwash.

I had the chance to meet up with the three musketeers – two Icelandic girls and one Finnish – to see the screening of their interactive film and catch up afterwards with a few beers and some strong mojitos. I also had the chance to meet Cecilie – a very sweet Dane who studied at Deakin during the term after I left, and who therefore, has several of the same friends as I had during my Aussie studies. It was great to meet her, and we spent a really great afternoon at the Christiania Christmas market eating Mexican crepes, drinking Gløgg, and getting to know each other a little bit.

On the 21^st, Lasse and I caught a very early flight (in a propeller plane!) to Aalborg, where we hopped in his uncle’s car and headed to Tranum and the Bak family beach house. The drive there was snowy and flat, and made me feel very at home.

It was a proper winter paradise – peaceful, relaxing and beautiful. Just over the snow-covered sand dunes was the North Sea, where the beach afforded a beautiful vantage point for watching the sunset. We lazed through breakfasts and bundled up for walks in the snow. Lasse taught me to play rummy, and though he won most of the time, my wins were more spectacular. We watched movies, warmed up by the fire, wrapped Christmas presents, listened to North Pole radio, drank some bad red wine, and some really good.

Tranum

The beach along the North Sea.

The beach house.

Then on the afternoon of Christmas Eve, we headed to Aalborg to celebrate at his Aunt and Uncle’s house. After a flurry of introductions (where I was pleased to find everyone hugged hello, making me feel at ease due to my affection upbringing), we sat down for coffee, tea and cakes. The party consisted of Lasse’s parents, Margrete and Finn, brothers, Laurits and Anders, Uncle Uffe, Aunt Pia and Uncle Kristian, cousins Jakob and Morten, and Jakob’s Australian girlfriend, Stephanie. They were a wonderful and welcoming group and they certainly deserve a lot of credit in making me feel completely at home during my first Christmas away from Winnipeg.

Kristian is a doctor, and it had been arranged that all the “kids” (I use the term loosely, as I was the second youngest) would sleep on spare mattresses in the various clinic offices. Following tea, we all headed to the clinic to set up camp – A Christmas sleepover of sorts.

The big feast was on Christmas Eve. The big Danish feast. The beginning of the big Danish feast. We ate roast duck, caramelised boiled potatoes, plain boiled potatoes, gravy, red cabbage, and apple jelly. We drank Christmas beer, red wine, white wine, and a variety of liquors. Dessert was rice pudding with slivered almonds and blackberry sauce. As per Danish tradition, whosoever finds the whole almond in the pudding gets a present! Unfortunately, despite there being two almonds this year, I was unsuccessful. Lasse found one, and Finn found the other.

Next, the candles (yes, candles) on the tree were lit, a circle was formed around the tree, song books were distributed, hands were held, and everyone broke into song while circling the tree. Given my extreme beginner Danish language skills, I only managed to hum. However, I thoroughly enjoyed this tradition. Especially when Kristian broke the circle and led the whole parade throughout the house, singing all the way. A typically chaotic gift exchange followed the singing and dancing, and then tea, desserts and a word game followed the gifts. We made it back to the clinic around 3am – the latest I have ever stayed up on Christmas Eve.

We woke around 10:00 on Christmas Day – the latest I have ever woken on the 25^th – and made it back to Kristian and Pia’s around 11:00. Christmas lunch consisted of Danish rye bread, hard-boiled eggs, egg salad, homemade curry, pickled herring and warm beer. Yes – warm, very sweet, Christmas beer. Turns out I fit in quite well with the Danes and loved the herring. I even managed a glass of the beer. However, I missed the part where this was only the first round of Christmas lunch. So when I helped Pia carry out the lamb meatballs, spiced lamb, caramelized potatoes, creamed kale, red cabbage, hummus, tzatziki and salad, I was a little bit alarmed. It was all very delicious, but it was a bit of a stretch on the belly.

A break was taken to enjoy the lovely Christmas day weather with a walk – I was especially pleased that my white Christmas wish had come true – and then we all returned to cheeses, marmalades and more bread with tea and coffee (I thought my family ate a lot during the holidays, but this was a whole new level). The rest of the day was quite lazy, spent mostly on the couch, and then skyping with my family before joining in for one last meal of goulash, potatoes, and … more bread!

It was certainly a very special Christmas; one I will always remember with a smile.

The next morning, I hopped a train, then a ferry to Kristiansand, Norway, where my darling friend Ida and her darling dog Tinka picked me up to take me home to Grimstad. No offense to my favourite Euro boys, but it is certainly a treat to be staying in a girl’s apartment. I’ll be in Norway until January 8^th, so Happy New Year to everyone!

Sending love from Norway!

So Runs the World Away...

On his bedroom wall, Stefan has a collection of photos from his time in Australia. When I visited last week, he pointed to one and asked if I remembered the evening he took it: Last year, towards the end of our term in Melbourne, the two of us spent an evening wandering around Southbank and sitting alongside the Yarra River. We talked about our amazing group of friends, reflected on how our lives had been changed, and wondered what we’d all be doing in 3 months, 6 months, a year’s time and more. Of course, by now, that photo was taken over a year ago. On top of everything I’ve had the opportunity to see and experience in Europe so far, one of the neatest things has been having the chance to see my friends again and visit them in their homes. I feel very fortunate to have been made to feel at home so often throughout my travels.

The photo that spurred this reflection.

But enough sentimentality for now. 

Stefan hosted me in Marburg for 5 days and nights, and I had a most excellent time. It was snowing when we arrived (he picked me up from Frankfurt train station), and it snowed for about the next 48 hours straight. I know this sounds like a lot of snow, but given that the temperature hovered around freezing, it didn’t pile up the way it tends to in good ol' Winnipeg. However, there was still a fairly consistent blanket of snow most of the time I was there. I was especially excited the first morning I woke up to see everything had turned white – it just never gets old. Marburg looks like a fairytale town with its old German buildings, cobblestone roads, and a castle crowning the highest point. Of course, I enjoyed it all the more given the snow, the lights, and the Christmas markets serving Gluhwein (warm red wine and rum), crepes, and German sausages.

The view first thing in the morning!

Making our way up to the castle.

Looking down towards the city.

We drank gluhwein, we had snowball fights, we ate German food (best when prepared by Stefan himself), we hiked up to the castle twice, we went skating (where I met another Canadian with her red mittens - likely the only other Canadian in Marburg), we fed ducks, we played King’s Cup with Stef’s flatmates, we slept in and we ate the breakfast that I’d been so craving while in Spain and Portugal – where breakfast doesn’t play a very important role.

One of the Christmas markets

Ducks!

It was over all too soon, but Berlin was a must on my agenda. So Stefan helped me arrange a ride from Marburg to Berlin (road trip with a complete stranger: check). In Germany there’s an awesome carpool organization where you can book rides with people already making the trip and pay them some gas money. I would say it worked out quite nicely for me.

Berlin is a cool city; certainly packed with history, interesting architecture, and, well, graffiti all over the place. Two days was not really enough time there, but I did my best. I walked along the East Side Gallery – a memorial section of the Berlin Wall that was painted by artists from all over the world, and visited the Jewish Museum. I wandered through even More Christmas markets, taking in the delicious smells of roasted nuts and German sausage, and realizing I’ve developed a nose for the smell of gluhwein. I visited the Reichstag building (parliament) and the Holocaust Memorial, and went for a long walk through Tiergarten park enjoying the fresh snow and getting out of the wind. And to cap it all off, I visited the 1936 Olympic Stadium. Unfortunately, it was not as accessible as the Barcelona Stadium, but it was still really cool to see.

The Berlin Wall

The Holocaust Memorial

The Olympic Stadium

Now I’m back “home” in Copenhagen. I came “this close” to missing my flight after a delayed train debacle, and it was not a particularly nice experience. However, by some Christmas miracle, I made it. So I was even more excited to spend the day relaxing in a familiar place, and the evening listening to the Rolling Stones and Van Morrison, and eating vegetables as a part of dinner with homemade ice cream for dessert. It’s even snowing this morning, despite the forecast having been for rain. Happy holidays, indeed!

Sending love from Denmark!